查看: 527|回复: 0
收起左侧

追寻萌物·环游世界200天:北澳西澳游记+终极攻略【中英】Australia

[复制链接]
发表于 2017-9-3 21:16:32 | 显示全部楼层 |阅读模式

长征网(www.cnczw.cn)-专业的文化娱乐门户网站!

您需要 登录 才可以下载或查看,没有帐号?立即注册长征网

x
  注:由于语言翻译问题中英版本内容稍许不同,攻略在游记之后
  Note: Chinese and English contents may differ. The guide comes after the journal.
  I have a fully English blog in my profile description.
  (我的中文不好请大家见谅)
  (I know my English is riddled with problems, please forgive me.)
  2015年,我突发奇想:既然我可以比人家都便宜地穷游,为什么不一年跑遍世界七大洲呢?(详情见我肯尼亚篇游记,有正式的介绍哟!)我决定把我的幻想在2016年变成现实,所以第一站是大洋洲:澳大利亚,而且不是一般的澳大利亚,而是鲜为人知的北澳和西澳。这不是我第一第二次去澳大利亚了,但是每次来到这片奇幻的土地之际我总会学到新的东西,貌似这个大洲一直无形地吸引着我,所以澳大利亚是我至今为止去过最多次数的国家。我提倡轻装简行,所以我的小包装着我需要的一切:衣服,新买的单反,充电器,拖鞋,雨衣,以及那一颗激动的心。所有东西加起来也才5.5公斤,但是我准备好了!我到了洛杉矶机场,却发现我被安排到了一个中间座位,14小时的中间座位,呵呵呵呵呵。。。
  I came up with a crazy idea in 2015: I wanted to travel to all 7 continents in one year. (More details are explained in my Kenyan journal.) Thus, I put that into action. First stop: Australia. I will not just go to normal Australia; I wanted to go to the northern and western extremes! What do people think of when it comes to Australia? It is so far off the common Northern American cities that it is generally off a budget traveler's radar. True, South America is cheaper in almost all regards, but the land down under is completely different. I have been to Australia a few times. Every time I visit, I discover new things, as if this piece of land is of immense amount of secrets. The large country simply has this magical force pulling me there, making it my most-visited country that is not one of my home bases. Also how can I resist a cheap glitched ticket right? ;)  I practice minimalism when it comes to traveling, and I had everything I need: clothes, my new DSLR camera, chargers, thongs (seriously this is how Aussies call flip flops), rainproof jacket that costs more than the airplane ticket, and an excited heart ready to adventure into the outback!! Except the heart, everything adds up to 5.5 kg/12 lbs. I arrived in the LAX international terminal, and I unfortunately got assigned a middle seat. 14 hours in a middle seat, that is gonna be fun.
  下图:本次澳洲地图行程/Below: the map of this journey

澳大利亚

  上图:我的小小行囊里面所有的东西/ Above: everything in my tiny bag
  我登机之后发现坐在我左右两边的两个人居然是一对夫妻,我很礼貌的问了他们三次是否愿意和我换一下位置这样子他们可以坐在一起,但是遭到了断然拒绝,那我也只能在心里骂了。整个飞行途中他们冒犯了我的私人空间不知道多少次,递吃的喝的,传笔传杂志,说话,都把我夹在了中间。作为一个单身狗,本来我就对发狗粮的情侣羡慕嫉妒恨,这次却对我效果特别拔群。我从来没有这么痛恨乘飞机,但是为了这张140美金的机票,我还是忍了。
  I boarded the airplane, and realized something: the two people sitting beside me, in the aisle and window seat, were husband and wife. I kindly asked if either of them want to switch seat with me, thrice, so that they can sit together. I got three firm "No". I usually am not particularly fond of couples simply due to my lonely-as-frick nature, but this is some next level bullcrap. The entire journey was filled with awkwardness, with them passing water, food, magazines, pens, through my personal space, and talking with me in between, silent stares, and just general unfriendliness. I have never hated an airplane ride more in my life. I did not complain, hey, I was on a ridiculously low fare so I guess I deserved that.

  一下飞机,我就是去过澳洲四次的人了!我知道布里斯班有很高的机场税,所以为了避免付20多澳元的附加费,我决定不坐机场快线火车。我先去火车站买了一张Go Pass卡(本地的交通卡),然后折返回航站楼坐免费接驳巴士到Skygate,所以早上7点我就已经在590巴士站等着去布里斯班一日游了。我有整整12个小时在布里斯班玩耍,而今天我晚上要坐飞机继续前往达尔文。澳洲傲人的晴天让鸡冻的我忘记了时差是什么东西:我的七大洲之旅正式开始了!
  Upon disembarking, I was in Australia for the fourth time in my life! I knew there is a cheap way to bypass the ridiculously expensive airport tax imposed on all trains. I had to take a free transfer bus to the Skygate industrial complex, and then take 590 to a local train station, and then take the train towards city center, solid plan. I first went to the train station to buy a go pass card, the universal metro card used for Brisbane, and then doubled back to the terminal for the transfer bus. Everything went smoothly, and I was waiting for the 590 bus at 7 in the morning, giving me a full 12 hours before I would come back to the airport for my flight to Darwin. (Yes, I am crazy, I decided to just stroll around in Brisbane for one day and immediately leave) The sun was blindly bright, and the weather was perfect for such a day trip. Jet lag? What is that, some kind of new donut flavor? I was so excited. Everything seemed perfect, and my trip around the world got a great start!

故事桥  上图:布里斯班摆渡码头/Above: Brisbane ferry dock
  等了许久,终于一辆巴士来了,我坐车坐到了Toombull站,换乘了火车直奔市中心。来到布里斯班市中心的河边才刚过九点,所以我有充足的时间享受这个美好的大晴天~!
  A bus finally came after a long wait, and I got to the right train station, Toombull, and departed for city center! By the time I arrived in Central, it was 9 o’clock. Lots of time ahead of me, and what a gorgeous day it was!
  下图:著名的故事桥和免费摆渡船CityHopper
  Below: the famous Story Bridge and free ferry called CityHopper

故事桥  由于布里斯班市中心非常紧凑地环绕着布里斯班河的两边,公共交通和走路非常适合观光的需求。我漫步了美丽的河岸两边,然后去城市植物园里面绕了一圈。我参加了植物园免费提供的一个观光健行,学到了很多关于澳洲独有植物的有趣知识,也从那位导游老人那里了解了关于这个城市的一点历史。
  Brisbane has a very compact city center based on both sides of the Brisbane river, so it is very walkable and public-transport friendly. I took a stroll around the waterfront and thoroughly enjoyed the beautiful morning in the City Botanical Gardens. I also took a small free tour in the botanical gardens, and gained a lot of insight into the history and flora of the city.

城市植物园  上图:布里斯班城市植物园/Above:Brisbane City Botanical Garden
  免费游之后我在一家商场稍作停顿,然后继续探索这个一尘不染的城市。我无所事事地在免费的摆渡船上坐了好几个小时,静静地享受着湛蓝的天空和澳洲温暖的阳光,当然还有布里斯班无与伦比美丽的天际线。布里斯班的特别之处就是它不像其他绕河而建的城市例如上海和纽约一样注重大桥和隧道,取而代之的是大量的船,链接着河的两岸。
  After the tour, I headed downtown and had some old favorite, shwarma, before continuing exploring the city. I took the free CityHopper ferry around for a few hours, soaking up on the southern sunshine. They gave extraordinary views of the city skyline. It is rather peculiar to have a city based upon a river so emphasized on boat transportation instead of bridges and tunnels like Shanghai or New York.
  下图:布里斯班天际线/Below: Brisbane skyline

布里斯班  我离开了市中心,慢慢地走到了一个市立公园Roma Street Parkland,作为一个多用途公共空间,它还包括了很多不一样的个体花园。我漫无目的地徜徉在这看似无尽的绿意之中,看到了各种蜘蛛,蜥蜴,还有很多很多其他澳洲独有的动植物。太阳渐渐地向西边沉下,我也不得不与这个公园告别了。
  After my exploration with the city center, I walked my way towards the Roma Street Parkland. It is a public park designed for urban recreation, but also has a lot of individual small gardens for all kinds of exhibitions. I wandered aimlessly in this big park, finding many exotic plants, spiders, lizards, ibis, and others. The sun slowly dozed off to the west, and I had to take my leave.
  下图/Below: Roma Street Parkland

布里斯班  我乘火车来到了一个全是稀奇古怪的餐厅和酒吧的城区,叫做刚毅谷,斟酌许久后本吃货决定晚餐吃一家名为Brad Haus(面包房子)的德国餐厅,他们家的德国猪手好吃到我差点就错过了去达尔文的飞机。。。我第一次坐老虎航空这个廉价航空,我又很不幸的被卡在了中间座位。(我再也不想坐飞机了麻蛋!!!)还好三个小时也不是太久,我在刚过半夜的时候平安到达了达尔文。
  I took the train to Fortitude Valley, a place full of funky restaurants and bars. I decided to go German for no particular reason, and enjoyed myself so much that I almost missed my flight in a restaurant called Brad Haus/Bread House. I ended my first day by taking a flight to Darwin. My first time with the budget airline Tigerair, I got stuck in a middle seat again. The 3 hour ride up north was quite uneventful, and I landed slightly after midnight.

  达尔文不是一座普通的城市,我想来这里的原因99%是由于这个特殊的名字。查尔斯达尔文不但是这个城市名字的来源,更是众所皆知的生物学家,他曾经和这个城市的创始人船长John Lort是好朋友哟。我在我住的青旅遇到了负责管理的法国人Arnaud,他一天突然决定放下法国的一切来到达尔文做三轮车车夫,如今他的工作则是掌管这家青旅的上上下下。我和Arnaud也没任何事做,所以咱俩早上开车去了附近的小镇Parap去看看每周六的跳蚤市场。尽管这个市场比较小,但是它可全是各种好吃的东西和好看的表演。果汁果冰冰沙果奶新鲜水果做的饮料要什么有什么(欸怎么都是水果的);亚洲来的各种小东西也陈列在摊开来的小桌子上面,而且还有一些本地原住民做的小装饰品。当然,吃的东西包括了各种亚洲食物,中国盒饭泰国炒面新加坡喇沙印度飞饼尼泊尔咸豆汤香港点心应有尽有。
  The city of Darwin is a special one. I have always been fascinated by its name. It is named after the famous scientist Charles Darwin, which is basically 99% of the reason why I chose to visit. I got the pleasure to know the manager Arnaud, a French who one day decided "fuck it" and started riding transport tricycles in Australia for life. We both had nothing to do, so why not go for a market in Parap district? We did exactly so. The market is quite small, but full of vibrant performances, lots and lots of food, a lot of drink options too such as fresh fruit smoothies, fresh fruit milkshake, fresh fruit juices, and fresh fruit icebergs. Lots of handicrafts too, as there are so many Asian trinkets from so many different countries, and indigenous artworks as well. Oh, did I mention food? Chinese combos, Pad Thai, Singaporean Lakhsa, Indian Naan, Nepalese Dal, and Hong Kongnese dim sum....

达尔文  上图:喇沙店/Above: Laksa stall
  我吃了一份绝妙的海鲜喇沙,Arnaud则选择了泰式炒面。我们之后不知不觉喝了两升多的果汁,但是撑着肚子的我却表示完全不后悔。炽热太阳像烘焙两个撒上了海盐和迷迭香的小土豆一般炙烤着我们,所以我俩买了点水果就快速撤退回家。回去的路上我们在芬尼湾稍作停留。这个处于达尔文西面的小海湾正对着平静的帝汶海,水色蓝的发绿,我无法理解这么美丽纯粹的颜色是从何而来。。。
  I had a great seafood laksa, while Arnaud opted for pad thai. We had more fruit shakes than we were supposed to, but hey, no regrets. The sun baked both of us as if we were two well-seasoned potatoes thoroughly dressed with rosemary and rock salt, and we quickly retreated after buying a papaya and a pomelo for our dinner. We drove to the shore and enjoyed a view of the Fannie Bay. It is right to the west of Darwin, facing the Timor Sea. The water was so turquoise that my eyes were unable to comprehend its purity.
  下图:帝汶海/Below: Timor Sea
  (颜色没修过哦/no filters applied!)

达尔文  我意识到了尽管南半球正是冬天,达尔文的气候却异常的热。最低温度都是至少20度,最高温度更达到了35度。我们俩在太阳把我们暴晒成北京烤鸭之前回到了青旅,平常青涩而不善于社交的我便鼓起勇气,利用了这个慵懒的下午和其他的背包客们聊天,旅行中我最喜欢的部分就是其他各型各色的旅行者了。我发现整个青旅一半是德国人,另一半是法国人,而我被尴尬地夹在了我很生疏的法语和我一窍不通的德语之间。众多的新朋友之中有很多超长途旅行的背包客例如Pauline和Ylenia,她们要在澳大利亚呆超过一整年!(直到我懒癌发作完毕我写完这篇游记的时候她们还在澳洲)我也发现没有任何人像我一样就这么短途地在达尔文停留,因为对于他们来说来到澳洲花了很多钱,所以为什么不多待一会儿呢?
  我和大家都聊得很开,所以一眨眼的功夫太阳便慢慢地消失在了帝汶海的海平面之下,我想在黑夜降临之前探索一下这个城市,于是我便开始向码头走去,那个大陆终止而印度洋开始的地方。
  I realized that the weather here is extremely hot, despite the rest of the southern hemisphere enjoying a cold winter. Daily lows rarely dips below 20°C/70°F, with daytime high blowing up the 35°C/95°F. We made it back to the hostel before the afternoon sun roasted us alive like two well-glazed ducks, and I started talking with fellow travelers since there was literally nothing better than meeting new people. I found out half of the hostel was German, and the other half French. I was sandwiched between the beautiful language of French and the "beautiful" language of German. (Bitte, tten Sie mich nicht) I met a lot of interesting people traveling extremely long term (as in years) like Pauline and Ylenia, and nobody else traveling so shortly like me because, well, it is so expensive to get here so why not stay longer!
  After a pleasant talk with almost all folks, the sun had already dipped into the Timor Sea, before darkness settled in, I chose to explore the city. I walked towards the tip of the bay, where land ends and the vast Indian Ocean begins.

达尔文  上图:达尔文教堂/Above: Anglican Cathedral
  我一下子便走过了十个街区的市中心,来到了海港边。太阳才刚刚下山,海风向岸上徐徐吹来,好几个乐队开始在餐馆里面演唱了,而一对又一对的情侣则徜徉在还未散尽太阳余热的海滩上,勤奋地给我发着狗粮。西边的天际被已经沉下的太阳涂成了棕红色,把那些棉花糖般的云朵们染成了南瓜一样的橙黄。
  I quickly walked past the 10 block "CBD" of this city, and reached the beautiful harbor. The sun had just set, kicking the sea breeze inland, and bands started playing on the patios of the restaurants, while lovebirds stroll the grounds still emitting heat from the scorching sky-fireball that had just dipped below the meandering waves. The sky was colored a reddish hue, burning the puffy clouds into a pumpkin orange color.
  下图:达尔文日落/Below: Darwin sunset

达尔文  我撞见了一个标志,上面有着一个我熟悉的词 Mo:mo:,这是在尼泊尔和咸豆饭并称国宝的一种类似于蒸饺子的东西,一定要蘸着辣花生酱才好吃。我第一次2012年独自背包旅行就是去尼泊尔,而且我还非常爱吃那个人见人怕的咸豆饭,所以我看到尼泊尔餐厅就非常的鸡冻。我意识到了不管我走了多远,我在旅行中所看到的所学到的会跟随我一生。旅行让我成为了一个更好的人。因为旅行,我开始了解为什么尼泊尔有那些佛塔,提提喀喀在印加人口中是什么意思,亦或是为什么冰岛会出产那么多番茄。更重要的是,旅行让我对其他人,其他文化,其他观念,有了更加深刻的理解,使我更能够从他人角度设身处地着想。它也让我对这个世界有了更好的了解,也让我意识到我有多么的幸运。我可能一直在抱怨我是条单身汪,但是有很多很多其他的人还在琢磨着下一顿饭在哪,他们走丢的孩子,或者是他们被移平的家。。。
  I stumbled upon a sign reading a familiar word, "Mo:mo:" . This is the Nepalese national food, along with the dreaded Dal Bhat, which I enjoyed immensely during my travel to Nepal, the journey that began it all. It resembles a dumpling, with different fillings and a great peanut sauce as a side. I felt so fulfilled, as I was so far away, so many years after the travel, and yet my travels are still paying it back. Travels indeed made me a better person. I started to know why those stupas exist in Nepal, what Lake Titikaka meant for the Inca culture in Peru, or how the freezing Iceland was able to grow so much tomatoes. Most importantly, I know traveling made me more accommodating to all kinds of people, lifestyles, cultures, viewpoints, origins; it made me more familiar with the world that I am living in; it made me more compassionate to the people as I see so many much more unfortunate than me: I may be looking for someone to be with, but they are looking for their next meal, or their lost children, or their destroyed home...

达尔文  上图:达尔文步行街/Above: the mall at Darwin
  我来到了城里的超市(见攻略),然后发现这里的物价奇高无比,所有的东西几乎都比北美要高。我回到了青旅其他朋友们的簇拥之中(尽管绝大部分还是德国人和法国人),认识了法国妹子Morgane,她有一天决定不想再待在家里了,所以便买了张单程票来到了澳洲,丝毫没有考虑过要回去的意思。我也和那些早些认识的其他人聊了开来。我们看欧洲杯,打球,喝了个不停,整个青旅的喧哗直到半夜三点才渐渐消减下来。
  隔天我被大太阳晒醒之后我和Pauline一起吃了早饭。她还是一如昨天的古怪和风趣,还随口提到说她想找个工作。我一直非常的敬佩那些边旅行边工作的人,他们找到了一个想要留下来的地方就呆到不喜欢为止,住着本地人的生活,没有比这个可以更加深刻融入一个国家的办法了。
  我打算先不要往外面跑,这一天格外强烈的阳光几乎可以晒到骨头里面,所以我在青旅的吊床上度过了慵懒的一个上午,看看微博刷刷朋友圈什么的。那之后我来到了著名的Crocosaurus Cove,一个专门展示北澳大利亚爬虫类动物的水族馆和展览室,最有名的莫过于本地最和蔼可亲的爬行类:鳄鱼。从小河到大海,它们无处不在,它们甚至已经遍布到没有标志允许你游泳你就不能下水的地步。在我到达的前几天,一个英国游客就被鳄鱼在河里干掉了。但是我在这个水族馆里面还是享受到了一个一般人看不到的东西:鳄鱼跳出水面吃鱼!
  I made it to the supermarket with a sad heart: the food here is soooooo expensive! I started to discover that the cost of everything is almost always noticeably higher than North America. I returned to the hostel and quickly found myself amongst many other travelers again (albeit most of them German or French). I got to know Morgane, who one day just decided “screw it” and left for OZ for as long as she can. I also had a great time chatting all the other fellow travelers I had previously talked to. We had a great drink, and the entire hostel did not rest until a solid 3 am.
  Next day I woke up to a beautiful ray of sunshine (which in the afternoon is a ray of death), and had my breakfast while talking with Pauline. She is kind and whacky as usual, and said she was gonna find a job. I always admire people who do work travel because it is so strange, you like a place and you found a job, great, you can stay here for almost forever. You literally live a local life, and isn't that awesome?
  I decided to just lay low for a bit since I could feel the sun penetrating my skin and burning my bones, and I would very much love to have my skeleton relatively intact. I wasted a beautiful morning watching cute puppy videos, a morning well wasted indeed. I then headed towards the famous Crocosaurus Cove, an aquarium dedicated to Australia’s Northern Territory’s most genial reptilian friends: crocodiles. They are almost everywhere, from land to ponds to streams to ocean. They are so prevalent that nobody is allowed to swim anywhere unless it had been cleared by the authorities. In fact, just a few days before my arrival, a British lady was elegantly chomped in the area. Anyways, enough with the scare tactics, I had great fun watching crocs munching on fish, some even leaping out of the water!
  下图:大鳄鱼吃午饭/Below: enormous crocodile feeding

达尔文

达尔文  上图:鳄鱼跃出水面抢食/Above: Croc leaping out of water for food
  在那之后,我回到了还半睡半醒的旅舍(已经下午四点了!),准备前往达尔文最有名的盛事:Mendil海滩日落市场。这是整个礼拜中在这个小城里面唯一一次你可以看到超过二十个人的地方。我慢慢走到了这个喧哗异常的市场,烤鱿鱼色的夕阳还挂在西边的海平面上,昭示着一种无与伦比的美丽。夜市上有音乐演奏,还有从韩式到斯里兰卡式的各种亚洲食物,琳琅满目的小纪念品,看星星可以租用的大望远镜,魔术师表演等等等等。我突然想起了我在台湾长大的那些日子,很类似这个的夜市也是人头攒动,只不过吃的东西非常不一样罢了。带着你心爱的人们来吃些非常好吃的小食,看看搞笑的魔术师表演,然后在那些游艺机上打一盘,难道不是快乐生活的一部分吗?
  After I returned to the hostel, with half of it still sound asleep, (it was 4 pm!!) I decided to go for Darwin’s most famous event: Mendil Beach Sunset Market. This is the only time in the entire week that you can find a mass congregation of people in this town. It was simply stunning, the roast-duck colored sun slowly dipping into a dark blue dressing called sea… unbelievable. There were live music productions, all kinds of Asian food ranging from Korean to Sri Lankan, handicrafts, telescopes for star gazing and magic shows. I also found this very reminiscent of my childhood growing up in Taiwan as there are so many outstanding night markets with similar styles but drastically different food. With your loved ones, eat something bizarre, watch something funny, munch on something VERY unhealthy, and play games in those portable slot machines, isn’t that the epitome of a happy life?
  下图:日落/below: sunset

达尔文  我遇见了两个也是我们青旅的法国女生,所以咱仨便一起去尝试了好多种不一样的好吃的,塞饱了肚子之后在沙滩上坐了下来,在银河璀璨的星空下聊天。找到了南十字星座,南半球的北极星之后,我们讨论了各自的未来计划。她们一个旅行了一年多了,另外一个也在路上走了九个多月,而我?这次我才在澳洲跑13天。这本来就已经寂静的夜晚也在海浪碰撞沙滩和海风轻抚脸庞的声音衬托之下显得更加的安详。我们揣着吃着饱饱的肚子和一个微微的笑容回到了这个永远充满活力的家。一顿派对喝酒游戏聊天之后,我们在夜风的安抚下渐渐地进入了梦乡。
  I met two French girls from the same hostel on the way. We tried some different food and sat on the sand under the milky way and talked. We spotted the southern cross, the guiding constellation for the folks down in southern hemisphere, and talked about our plans for the future. One of them traveled for over a year, the other nine months, me? 13 days. The quiet night was further silenced by the wave crashing into the powdery beach and the sound of wind whooping through the ocean air. We got back with a grin on our face, and a full stomach too. We partied, we drank, and dozed off into the coconut-scented night.

达尔文  上图:Mendil海滩日落市场/Above: Mendil Beach Sunset Market
  我起床的时候,Pauline又正好在煮早餐。(对于她来说煮早餐就是把牛奶倒进一碗麦片里面,搅拌不搅拌看她心情)她前几天刚从珀斯开车过来,所以在她去洗车之前我和她早早地道了个别。我把我小小的行囊收拾了一番,便匆匆登上了去机场的巴士。我和Ylenia,Arnaud,Morgane,以及很多其他的人一一拥抱告别,心里非常清楚有几个人可能一辈子也看不到了。四个小时的飞机非常轻松,在日落之前我降落在了世界上最孤立的大城市:珀斯。
  I woke up to see Pauline cooking breakfast again. Well, if you count pouring milk into a bowl that contains some wheat-sugar fried dough called cereal cooking, and stirring is optional. She had driven all the way north from Perth a few days back, and she now had to clean her car, so we bid an early farewell. I organized my tiny backpack, and talked some more with the interesting people of this good hostel before I boarded my bus to the airport. I hugged goodbye to Ylenia, Arnaud, Morgane, and many others, knowing that I will never see some of them ever again in my life. The flight went smoothly. Before nightfall, I had further traveled to the most isolated metropolis: Perth.

  珀斯是一个很有趣的城市。它拥有超过一百万的人口,但是却没有多少人知道这个城市的存在。从机场我乘了380路巴士前往市中心,并且从市中心的伊丽莎白枢纽转乘了免费的蓝CAT巴士来到了我的青旅,CAT是珀斯的一种免费巴士系统,不论对谁来说都是非常方便的天赐宝器。
  Perth is an interesting city. It has well over 1 million people, yet not so many seem to know its existence. I left the airport to take a bus towards the center, and I quickly made my way around its terminal Elizabeth Quay to take the last Blue CAT bus to the hostel area. CAT is a series of free buses that runs throughout the central areas in the city, extremely convenient to tourists and commuters alike.

珀斯  上图:珀斯天际线/Above: Perth Skyline
  我早早地爬起来,只为了去我这次旅行的最终目的地:我自从在网上看到便一直想要去亲眼见到quokka(短尾矮袋鼠)。那是什么鬼呢?请自行百度,或者继续读下去,我希望你们选哪个你懂的。(其实它们就是又小巧玲珑又可爱无边的毛茸茸小动物,我对这种卡哇伊的东西一向没有抵抗力)
  我乘了CAT到市中心,然后乘船前往罗特内斯特岛。在摆渡船慢慢开在珀斯母亲河天鹅河上面的时候,我又认识了三个新朋友:Bella, Daniela和Meret。猜猜看她们是从哪个国家来的?  对啦!又是德国人!这些胆子贼大的三个女生还比我小!(我那时候才20岁,但是这群妹子才17-18岁)德国人太可怕老师我要报警了!!我们登陆之后,我们立马登上了租的自行车狂飙而去,只留下一片云彩。我们很快便看到了好几只quokka,我立刻就被这些究极可爱的小东西们吸引住了(太萌了啊啊啊啊啊啊啊啊啊)。但是它们已经被一群人围的里三圈外三圈(人类什么的最可恨了),所以我们决定继续向内陆骑行,找找比较偏僻的地方,毕竟这个小岛上有超过5000多个矮袋鼠呢!一顿乱踩之后,一行人很快便深入内部,当然也就没有错过每一道美丽的风景。
  I woke up early, and finally it is time for my true goal of this trip. I have always wanted to see a quokka, and today I am fucking going to see some. What is a quokka you ask? Well, you can either use google or keep reading, and you know which one I prefer.(they are basically puffballs of cuteness only seen on an island nearby, and I have 0 defense stat against cuteness...)
  I made my way towards the docks thanks to the Blue CAT, and I boarded the shuttle ship towards Rottnest Island. We cruised along Swan River, Perth’s mother river. I made 3 more friends on the cruise, Meret, Bella, and Daniela, and for their nationality, TAKE A WILD GUESS. Yeah, they are all German! (Bitte, tten Sie mich nicht!!!) They are also all younger than me!!! What the actual frack!!! Upon landfall, we all hired bikes and rode off as soon as we set our paws on the island. We immediately spotted a few quokkas and my heart melted like a creamy mushmellow puff gently placed upon a fire. However, there were so many humans around them, (ewwwwww human, disgusting) we decided to ride further and take the mandatory selfie with them in a more secluded place: there are over 5000 of them on this island after all! We quickly made our way deeper inland, and the view was simply spectacular.
  下图:罗特内斯特岛/Below:Rottnest Island

罗特内斯特岛  在这个崎岖的小岛上骑车就不是个好主意,我很快便骑断了气,Bella还时不时地以超音速超过我,我就不应该在外面吃那么多烤鱼和沙县。。。我们终于在路边找到了两只可爱的,不被人类骚扰的quokka,立刻,我们四个人就如梅西铲球一般滑到地上把自己当成网红开始疯(fei)狂(fa)自(sao)拍(rao)。
  I quickly found myself out of breath, riding my bike around the hilly roads, with Bella sometimes surpassing me so quickly like she was on Tour de France. Those fries and meatballs were definitely taking their toll. We finally found two quokkas by the road, and we decided it was time. It was time to selfie the shit out of this opportunity, and we surely did.

罗特内斯特岛  上图:人生目标达成-和短尾矮袋鼠自拍/Above: Bucket list item achieved-selfie with a quokka
  在和这些蠢萌的小毛绒玩具自拍了几千张之后我才意识到它们的爪子把我上下已经抓出了一道道红印子,但是我们一定要继续前进。在火球一般的太阳照射下骑行一小时之后我们来到了小岛的最西端。坐在海边的悬崖上,海浪不断地拍打在脚下,咱们一行人慢慢地,寂静地咀嚼着从海的另一边带来的午餐:鸡肉菠菜三明治。
  After so much fun with these cute little hopping fluffy spheres of pure joy and happiness that actually packs some serious claws and teeth, we had to carry on. We rode another hour under the scorching sun towards the western end of the island, and we sat down for a lunch. The waves crashed into the rocky cliffs underneath us, upon which we enjoyed a good chicken spinach sandwich……
  下图:罗特内斯特岛/Below:Rottnest Island

罗特内斯特岛  我们从岛的另外一边绕了回来,提早两个小时回到了码头所在的小镇子上面。在这个六小时当中,我们在非常不适合公路的自行车上,三十多度的烈日下骑行了超过25公里。镇子上还有很多矮袋鼠,它们仗着自己无比呆萌的小脸,不顾他人一般的任性和调皮。
  We took another route for our return to the settlement where the docks are located, and we rode a total of over 25 kilometers/18 miles in 6 hours, in a bike very much not suited for the country road, under sun as hot as made-to-order chili fries. More quokkas were around the little village, and the little creatures are as defiant as they are cute.

罗特内斯特岛  上图:在禁止矮袋鼠标志面前的一只短尾矮袋鼠/Above: a quokka in front of a no-quokka sign
  我们终于休息了一下子,多照了几张自拍,之后乘上了回珀斯的船。这一天实在是有点累,但是我们还是聊得很开心,Bella隔两天就要离开了,Meret也即将回到德国,而Daniela完全没有要停下来的意思(她在我一年多之后写这一篇的时候还是没回家)。我们在码头互相拥抱道别,给人生中最美好的一天画上一个句号。我在市中心漫无目的地走了许久,仿佛是在完成了这件向往已久的事情之后我的人生丧失了目标。在深夜我终于走到了旅舍,鞋子才脱掉了一只就倒在床上立马就睡着了。
  第二天,我决定去附近一个叫做Fremantle的小城一日游,从珀斯市中心乘火车半个小时就到了这个小城的中心。在这个青天白云的日子,我漫步在这个古城的街道上,走到了一个城堡似的圆房。在英国人殖民澳洲的时候,这个房子是用来关不守法的市民的,但是运过来的囚犯则不会这么幸运了,它们若是犯事那可不就是这么好的待遇,一般直接就是鞭挞50下。这个房子每天下午一点都会发一个时间球,以前没有统一时间的时候这个一日一次的信号是统一这一个地区所有灯塔和其他政府设施时间的唯一办法,但是作为一个传统它被保存到了现在。
  We finally had some rest, and some more selfies, then we boarded the boat back. We were all half-dead on the boat after such a tiring day of riding and selfies. We all had different travel routes, with Bella returning within just 2 days! Meret was also going to return to Germany soon, while Daniela had no intention of stopping. We hugged each other goodbye at the dock, leaving one of the best days in our lives behind. I walked down the streets in the CBD, rather aimlessly as if my life had just lost all its meanings. I eventually returned to hostel and fell right asleep.
  Next day, I opted for the town of Fremantle since it boasts the best daytrip of the area. I went downtown; I boarded a train; I was on my way. Conveniently, I reappeared smack in the middle of this old town within 30 minutes. The sky was as blue as the indigo linen in those old movies, and the sun felt like a warm fuzzy fireplace. I walked around, and decided to have a view of the famous Round House, the old prison for the common folks, not the convicts, of this early establishment by the British Empire. At 1pm, they fired a time ball that was used to adjust the time for the local authorities and the lighthouse. It continued to this day.
  下图:Fremantle城中心/Below:Fremantle town centre

弗里曼特尔  我徜徉到了码头,在一家小店里享受了一顿炸鱼和薯条。我选择了在外面吃,面对着平静的水面和安详的渡口,唯一陪伴我的是一群又一群想要偷我薯条的贼鸥们。
  I swung by the docks, and enjoyed yet another fish and chips. I chose to sit outside by the tranquil water in the harbor, and the only company I got were numerous seagulls trying to steal my chips.

弗里曼特尔  上图:Fremantle码头/Above: Fremantle harbor
  午饭过后,我终于走到了今天最重要的目的地:Fremantle监狱。19世纪中期,澳大利亚主要是作为英国的一个囚犯殖民地,有些时候罪名小到在店里偷东西的罪犯都会被送到世界的另外一边来做苦力,这些囚犯也需要住的地方,所以最先来的罪犯们建造了这所监狱。拴在铁链之中航行一个多月之后,白天他们在烈日下造监狱,晚上他们被关在小屋子里面睡觉,所以澳大利亚甚至可以说是一个罪犯建立的国家。而英国人也不是吃素的,在这些人牢饭吃好了之后,他们会尽力“鼓励”这些劳动改造好的人留在澳大利亚,比如说,他们会告诉这些前罪犯们他们如果回去是会会被砍头的,或者英国人们会干脆把他们的全家全部运到澳大利亚来,是不是很热心呀~?
  After lunch, I finally arrived at the main attraction: Fremantle Prison. Australia was settled by the convicts of the Great Britain in early to mid-1800s, and people who committed petty crimes like shoplifting could even end up on the other side of the world. They were sent here in chains, and they needed to be held somewhere, so the first convicts here in Fremantle built the prison. They work in the day building infrastructure, and got locked up at night. Thus the entire country of Australia is technically founded by criminals. The Brits gave them a lot of incentives to stay and settle after their sentence is finished, for example, by telling them they will be killed if they ever return, or simply send the convict's whole family over. Neat, right?
  下图:Fremantle监狱/Below: Fremantle Prison

弗里曼特尔监狱  这所监狱变成了西澳大利亚省唯一的一所监狱,负责超过六个黑龙江省的面积的管辖区。在英国的罪犯停止输送之过来后,很快这个设计给1000个人的监狱只关押了100个人都不到,这栋老房子连电,水和很多其他的基本设施都没有,因为毫无卫生标准,直到1980年的时候罪犯的食物里面都常常还有蛆和他们一起分享食物呢。1988年,最大的暴动把半个监狱都烧掉了,在那之后,政府也意识到了这个地方已经没有办法再住人,于是1991年,Fremantle监狱正式关闭,成为了一个博物馆和旅游景点。有44个罪犯在这所监狱里面被吊死处决,包括一个女人。女监狱部分现在是一所青旅,但是据说月黑风高的夜晚那些走廊里面还可以看到一个哭泣的女鬼。。。
  This particular prison became the only prison of Western Australia, a state about 2 Texas big. After the convicts stopped arriving, quickly the entire prison designed for 1000 people held barely 100. The prison was ridiculously old and had no electricity, running water, heating, and other basics for a long time. By 1980s, there were still maggots in the food, because the sanitation was non-existent. Riots happened, the biggest one in 1988 burnt half of the prison down, and the government, despite many times trying to make the living conditions better, was forced to shut down the prison and decentralize the system in 1991. It had been a tourist attraction ever since. 44 prisoners were executed here, including 1 woman. All were done by hanging. The women's division is now a hostel, but some say the female prisoner's spirit still roams that part on the darkest nights.

弗里曼特尔监狱  上图:监狱A区(网是防止狱卒被砸)/Above: cell block A (the net is to stop prisoners from throwing stuffs)
  很多人为了自由而尝试过越狱。由于这所监狱造在软石上面,很多人通过挖地道逃了出去,但是往往在空旷的院子里面如跑男一般奔跑时被抓到。有一个聪明人发现垃圾车停的地方离医务室很近,所以就装病被送到医务室之后,跳窗装作垃圾逃跑了。当然法网恢恢,他被抓到之后送了回来,服完刑之后才得以离开,前几年一个学校来这里秋游的一个小女孩居然是他的孙女!还有一些人利用了监狱的地下隧道网络逃跑过,还有很多人直接撑杆跳过这些墙,甚至还有几个人直接穿上狱警的上衣径直走了出去!
  Many escape attempts were made. Since the rockbeds were mostly soft rocks, some people managed to dig their way out, and be caught in the middle of the courtyard. One of the guys found out the garbage truck parked quite near the clinic, so they pretended to be sick and rode their way out. He got caught, sent back, served the sentence, and left. 3 years ago, a fieldtrip by a school went through, and one of the girls turned out to be his granddaughter! Other guys tried the prison's massive underground tunnel system, and the quick way for a lot of them is by jumping through the walls, and some simply made a guard uniform and walked out.
  下图:厨房每把刀都被编号锁上/Below: kitchen knives were marked, numbered, and locked
  (门上文字翻译:只允许狱警在时敲门入内)

弗里曼特尔监狱  1988年的那场有名的暴动始于第三区的囚犯们的午休时间。两个受信任的囚犯(如果表现好的话罪犯可以去做煮热水,切菜等可能造成危险的工作)收到事先讲好的信号之后把煮好的滚烫热水倒在了两个狱警头上,趁他们在地上尖叫的时候所有的囚犯一下子从院子里冲回到第三区,把所有狱警劫持为人质,拿走了钥匙。他们把之前偷来的汽油倒在地上点燃,很快整个区域被熊熊大火包围。他们提出三个要求:见省长,电视新闻报道,以及政府保证不会对他们因为这次暴动而定罪。但是他们万万没想到的是狱区的大门是可以从外面关上的,他们的钥匙根本不够,所以大火把他们逼到了开阔的院子里面,很快这些大脑缺了不止一根筋的囚犯们就束手就擒,三个条件当然也就不了了之了。令人感叹的是,在暴动发生的前一天,监狱教堂里面的所有神坛全部都不见了,在那天之后却又突然回来了,明显是有人非常信仰天主教,而且知道罪犯们的计划,但是不愿意去打小报告。
  Let's delve deeper into the 1988 riot. It started with prisoners of the 3rd block resting in the courtyard. Two trusted prisoners who handle hot water saw the signal, and poured boiling water onto the guards. The entire block of prisoners rushed into the cell block from the courtyard, and overpowered the rest of the guards, took them hostages, and took the keys. They had been stealing gasoline from the storage, and quickly set fire to the entire block. They demanded to meet attorney general, media coverage, and no retribution, but they quickly found out they keys they took were not enough for their escape. The doors to the courtyard could be barred from the other side, and the smart guards quickly shut it off, and the fire quickly forced all of the rioters into the courtyard again. All of them were caught, and thankfully nobody died, but half of the prison collapsed and had to be rebuilt. None of their demands were later met.
  What is mysterious is that the important altars in the Catholic part of the church all disappeared the day before the riot, and they magically reappeared the day after the riot. Someone knew the plan, and decided to protect those religious symbols. Even the most hardened criminals have a sense of responsibility huh?

弗里曼特尔监狱  上图:院子里罪犯画的壁画/Above: criminals' murals in the yard
  这就是这所南半球最大的监狱的一生,但是我也只是蜻蜓点水,这个地方还有很多隐藏的故事。D狱区的一部分现在已经改成了一个小公司孵化器,终于往这栋超过百年的老房子里面注入了一点生机。很多囚犯也非常的有艺术细胞,所以在监狱1991年关门之前,他们把这所监狱上上下下都画满了他们对生活的希望和期冀。
  Well, that basically summed up my exciting time in the largest prison in the entire hemisphere. Interesting place, and I was barely scratching the surface. Part of the D cell block is now converted into a start-up incubator, and that added some living people to this huge empty building. Lots of prisoners were well-versed in arts, and the courtyards, walls, ceilings and floors were covered by drawings. The prison also allowed the last prisoners to paint their cells before the shutdown in 1991, leaving magnificent pieces all over the place.
  下图:天鹅河日落/Below:Sunset on Swan River

珀斯  我从Fremantle监狱出来之后,太阳已经开始往印度洋中沉下去了。多好玩的一日游!我感觉我被带到了过去,而且还觉得一天不够探索这个监狱。我可以感受到这么多的痛楚,艰难险阻,但是这个地方还是有着对未来的希望和期盼。我回到珀斯后,往北漫无目的地走了一圈,来到了Northbridge餐馆区。这里吃的东西比达尔文便宜多了,所以我在一家韩国店一个人吃下了一整个部队锅,然后倒在了床上呼呼大睡。。。
  After my fun time in Fremantle Prison, the sun was slowly setting in the Indian Ocean. What a great place for a day trip! I felt I was dragged through a timeline of endless history, and a full day in the prison itself was barely enough! So much pain, hardship, work, struggle, and confrontation, yet it exudes a sense of harmony, balance and hope. I wandered to the north of the Perth station into an area called Northbridge. It is a restaurant district, and the food is significantly cheaper than Darwin. I had a great Korean hot pot, and turned in to bed.

珀斯  上图:远眺珀斯/Above: Perth from afar
  在珀斯的最后一天,我把我的小小包整理好之后来到了Northbridge觅食。我发现这里居然有一家鲜芋仙,所以我义无反顾的走了进去。这之后我在一家澳大利亚餐厅吃了一个鳄鱼汉堡!(真的是鳄鱼肉做的,不是很好吃。。。)我在机场和Bella道了别,她可能是要回家了,但是对我来说,我已经到家了,不论我去哪里,我都把那个地方作为我的一个家,而这一天,我将继续前往我的下一个家:墨尔本。
  Last day in Perth, I organized my things and aimed for the airport after wandering in the Northbridge for a while. I had a great Taiwanese dessert from Meet Fresh, a Taiwanese dessert holy site, and I had a crocodile burger in an Australian restaurant! I met Bella in the airport, and I hugged her goodbye. She may be going home, but I AM home. Everywhere I go, I treat it as my home, and today I go to my next home:Melbourne.

  半夜时分,我降落在了墨尔本国际机场,然后乘上了极其方便的机场巴士来到了国王十字站,从那里事先定好的青旅十站有轨电车就到了,我有幸赶上了半夜一点多的最后一班。墨尔本最大的好处莫过于市中心乘电车不要钱,不!要!钱!而且它还拥有着世界上最大的有轨电车网络。
  隔天我起了一个大早,因为我定了一个一日游,又是我向往已久的一天:我要开车前往十二使徒岩!但是由于我是个单身汪,我只好和一个团一起出去看咯。巴士来到了门口,跳上车之后我打了个瞌睡,一觉起来看到了这个:
  I landed around midnight, and the convenient shuttle bus directly hauled me to the King's Cross Station. I walked towards the tram station and boarded the last tram around 1am. What is great about Melbourne is that the entire central part of the city is completely free to get around. The city also has the largest tram fleet in the world. The electric tram quietly whimmed through downtown and I got off at my hostel, grabbed my keys, fell right into sleep.
  I woke up early to be picked up by a pre-booked tour: another big day in my life is coming! I will join this day trip along the Great Ocean Road to the famed 12 Apostles! It had always been my bucket list item as one of the top road trips in the world. However, since I am a friendless person, I decided to join a tour! I hopped on the bus right outside my hostel, after a nap on the bus, I woke up to this:

十二使徒岩  上图:十二使徒岩海岸/Above: 12 Apostles shore
  那一天天气实在是不好,但是没过了多久天气变得更加糟糕了。等到我爬到另外一边的时候,大雨已经把我的外套打得里外都湿透了。但是这一点也没有掩盖住十二使徒宏伟壮阔的气势。(我非常抱歉这些照片没有其他人拍得那么好看,天公不作美,不过我肯定还要回去看晴天的十二使徒的!)
  The weather was not great, but it quickly turned miserable. By the time I got to the other side where most of the apostles are, the rain had already drenched my jacket. However, it did not diminish the epicness of the 12 Apostles whatsoever. (I sincerely apologize for the lower quality of these photos, as the weather was less than optimal, but I will certainly return to see 12 Apostle on a sunny day!)
  下图:十二使徒岩/Below:12 Apostles

十二使徒岩  好玩的是,其实这里只有9个岩柱,而且一个在2005年南海的滔天巨浪下垮掉了,还有一个2009年也不幸遇难,所以现在你只能看到7个。每几千年都会有几个岩柱形成,几个岩柱消失。这里的岩石在不同的地方硬度不一样,硬的部分会比较耐侵蚀,所以会变成一个类似半岛的形状,在几万年的海浪冲刷之下,它们会被孤立出来,变成一个岩柱。再过几千年,这些岩柱终于被无尽的冲刷而刮倒,循环往复。在看过这个世界奇景之后,我们继续沿着大海洋公路一路往东。这条公路也不是一条普通的路,几百名一战退役士兵徒手铺出了这条路的前50公里,没有炸药,没有现代工具,他们用锤子和铲子开出了这条路,许许多多的士兵在这条血汗之路上命丧黄泉。最终政府决定拓宽这条公路,在20世纪中期完成了大部分的修造工程。在回去的路上,我们居然收到了一个小惊喜。在一个有好几棵桉树的小地方,我们看到了不少考拉,但是在导游给我手掌心中间放了一些葵花籽之后,一群漆黑的身影从树丛的深处窜了出来,站到了我的手上面。
  What is funny is that there are only 9 of these formations, one of them disintegrated in the strong waves of the Southern Ocean in 2006. They are constantly forming and disappearing, on the scale of thousands of years, since the rock bed here is uneven in hardness. The harder parts will form a headland like a mini-peninsula, and the waves wrap around them and create these columns standing alone in the ocean. After thousands of years of erosion, those columns finally crash into the ocean, and the process repeats.
  After the astounding view, we continued through the Great Ocean Road. The road is a legend itself. Hundreds of veterans of WWI built the first part of this road to connect the remote fishing villages as part of a government project, many of them died due to lack of any modern equipment. The entire first 50km were built by hand. Later the government decided to expand this 1-lane road into two lanes, and finally finished the section in mid 1900s.
  On our way back, we had a surprise! We were taken to a small place with a few trees, on which a few koalas dwelled. But when the guide put some sunflower seeds in my hand, a few dark figures suddenly rushed out of the woods, and stood on top of my arm.

澳大利亚  上图:野生鹦鹉/Above: wild parrot
  等我回到我的旅舍的时候,天早就已经黑了,我一下子就倒了下去,连鞋子都没脱,我实在是太累了啦。。。第二天,我又起了一个大早,悄悄地离开了我的青旅。我又一次背着我所有的家当在一个陌生城市里开始探索。我先去的一个地方叫做Hosier弄,一个藏在整齐干净墨尔本市中心的一条全是涂鸦的小巷子。能够一转弯就可以从一个大城市瞬间移动到一个古怪搞笑的涂鸦里弄真的不是一个一般人可以体验到的感觉。
  I got back to hostel quite late, and the only thing that I could stand is not standing and lying down in my bed. The next day, I woke up early and quietly checked out of hostel. I was again with my little backpack and exploring the city. I visited Hosier Lane, the graffiti lane hidden from plain sight in downtown Melbourne. It was a fantastic experience feeling the dramatic change between modern buildings and well, just pure arts, everywhere.
  下图:Hosier弄涂鸦的艺术家/Below:grafitti artist in Hosier Lane

涂鸦街(霍西尔巷)

墨尔本  上图:维多利亚市场/Above:Victoria Market
  接下来的几个小时,我徜徉在这个美丽干净的城市之中,充分利用了墨尔本的免费电车到处造(huo)访(beng)名(luan)胜(tiao)。我拜访了著名的维多利亚市场,南半球最大的开放式市场,那之后我又在弗林德斯街火车站附近的市中心区看了看街景。下午时分,我乘巴士回到了机场,飞到了悉尼。我用我的老Opal交通卡乘火车转地铁到了国王十字旁的青旅,认识了新朋友Jirina, Becky, Luke和Emily。我们一起喝酒聊天,到半夜大家都在屋顶上睡着了。。。
  I spent the rest of the day walking around the city, taking full advantage of the free tram zone. After the famous Victoria Market, the largest open air market in the hemisphere, I visited the central part of the city near Flinder Street Station. I eventually boarded the bus towards the airport, and arrived at Sydney late at night. I used my Opal card to get to my hostel near Kings Cross, and met new friends Jirina, Becky, Luke and Emily. We drank well past midnight, and passed out on the rooftop deck.
  下图:弗林德斯街火车站/Below: Flinder Street Station

弗林德斯街车站

  我相信大家都已经看过很多悉尼的游记或是照片了,外加我这次来到悉尼只是为了看看老朋友,再走走我前几次来这里走过的路,而不是来看歌剧院或是爬海港大桥的,所以我就给大家几张我随手拍的照片看看,更何况这篇的标题是西澳大利亚和北澳大利亚,要看悉尼详细游记的筒子们请出门右转,不好意思啦。
  Because I believe you guys have seen many journals and pictures of Sydney, and additionally I was here mostly just to revisit old friends, walk the paths I did in the handful times I was here before, and not climb the Harbour Bridge or see the Opera House, so I will only showcase a few pictures.
  下图:Watson湾/Below: Watson Bay

悉尼

悉尼  上图:麻麻袋鼠/Above: Kangaroo mama
  我花了一天和我在青旅里面认识的新朋友们一起去一个公园去看袋鼠,尽管我对袋鼠已经快到了见怪不怪的地步了,但是看其他人对着袋鼠撕心裂肺的嘶吼“好可爱呀!!!”还是很好玩的啊哈哈哈哈~
  I spent a day in a park near Sydney with my new friends met in the hostel to watch kangaroos. Even though I have reached the stage which I do not really care about them anymore, watching the others screaming at those marsupials was a kind of fun itself!
  下图:小杨照鼠,黄雀在后/Below: draw me like one of your French roos

悉尼  回洛杉矶的路上我又被安排到了中间座位,13个小时的折磨,也真是遇见活鬼了。。。但是我还是对我这次13天的澳洲之旅依依不舍:我遇见了大鳄鱼喂食,和好多袋鼠成为了小伙伴,开着大海洋公路到了十二使徒,和短尾矮袋鼠来了网红自拍,更重要的是,我又一次感受到了独自旅行的乐趣。尽管我还是一个可怜的单身汪,从一个城市跳到下一个,但是能够在这么一点时间看到这么多东西,我非常的骄傲。我心里很清楚:我来过澳洲四次了,我还会回来的,下一次也会和过去的每一次一样,我会认识新朋友,体验新的东西,发现更多我内在的澳洲精神。什么是澳洲精神呢?那只有来过澳洲的人才会体验到啦!
  On my flight back to Los Angeles, I was fortunately stuck in A F**KING MIDDLE SEAT AGAIN!That was another 13 hours stuck in a middle seat unable to look out of the window or get to the bathroom easily. That was the end of my adventure, and I went through so much. I fed some crocs, petted some kangaroos, drove down the Great Ocean Road to the 12 Apostles, I fell in love with quokkas, I visited old friends, and most importantly I had a lot of fun. Still, I travel all alone, hopping from a city to another, but knowing that I had done so much in so little time, I am proud. I have been there four times now, but I will be back, and again, like every time I was there, I will experience completely new things, meet new people, and discover more Aussie spirit in myself. What is it you ask? Well, it is a bit hard to explain with words, only people who have truly experienced Australia can understand ;) .

悉尼  上图:噢耶,噢对,就那里痒,就那里!用力挠!用力!/Above: Oh yeah, right there! Scratch! Harder!
  感谢大家百忙之中抽出这么多时间来读我的游记~!这是我在马蜂窝上的第一篇游记,而且这只是我走的一百多次中的一次,所以我肯定还规划了更多的游记!若是有任何的意见或建议,请不要客气向我发过来!我会尽我所能给大家看一个更真实,更漂亮的世界!下一篇:肯尼亚大草原!(已经完成!出门左转就是!)

  基本讯息:
  1澳元=5.3人民币
  1澳元=0.75美金=1加币
  中国护照:需要签证(140澳元加180人民币),美国、加拿大不需要签证
  用电:240伏特,八字分开插头,需要转换器
  海关:极其严格,请不要带任何不是包装好的食物,像包装好的食物如带鱼和肉的方便面等也几乎不会让过关,所以尽可能少带。种子类的如瓜子也不会让通关。
  吸烟:所有公共场所禁烟,只有标志允许的地方才可以吸烟。
  时区:西澳和中国一样,南澳和北澳比中国快一个半小时
  行车在左边!千万不要忘记了!
  达尔文建议3-4天,五到十月旱季去,一定要选一个周四或周日去夜市。
  珀斯建议4-5天,十月到十二月春天去,不会太热也不会太冷。
  达尔文/Darwin:
  气候:作为澳北首府,达尔文非常温热潮湿,气候很类似于中国南方。常年最高温度31-32度左右,是很典型的热带气候。十一二月开始季风带来的雨季,所以请带好雨具,防晒霜,和快干的衣服和袜子。
  怎么抵达和离开达尔文:
  飞机:从澳洲所有大城市都可以直飞达尔文。悉尼每天有4班(4.5小时,澳航2班,捷星1班,维珍1班,提早买150美金左右),布里斯班一天5班(4小时,虎航1班,澳航2班,维珍1班,捷星1班,提早买100美金左右),爱丽丝泉和墨尔本一日3班,珀斯和阿德莱德一日2班。国际航线最主要的是巴厘岛,非常便宜(提早买60美金),非常适合东南亚的背包客继续“跳岛”到澳洲大陆。达尔文还是前往帝力(东帝汶首都)的首选,每天有2班飞机直飞,达尔文和新加坡和吉隆坡有直航连接。直到写这篇攻略的时候没有中国直飞达尔文的航班。机场有免费无线网。
  火车:达尔文也可以通过世界闻名的The Ghan大汗号火车线路抵达。它横贯澳洲大陆南北,起于阿德莱德,终于达尔文,(单程)跨越了2979公里鲜为人知的澳洲内陆。54个小时的火车包括了在爱丽丝泉4小时的休息。2017-18年旺季票价表:白金服务4000澳币,黄金服务2600澳币,红色硬座1000以下(非常非常累,不推荐红色)。背包客或者提早买可以有比较好的折扣。详情请自行查询官方网站。
  自驾:若想要开车前往达尔文,请注意达尔文只有一条铺好的进出公路Stuart Highway,而且在地广人稀的北澳意味着一定要仔细驾驶,注意防暑,保养好车辆,以及一定要仔细注意自己的油箱。有很多地方几百公里都不会有加油站,而且晚上肯定全部关门。
  共享公路旅行:澳洲有这种开很远很远的公路旅行车,一般是面包车,而且会在所有可以玩的地方停下来让你尽情享受,然后所有乘客平摊费用。强烈建议有时间没有钱英语出色以及愿意交朋友的背包客参加。(一般是去Kathrine卡瑟琳和Perth珀斯的车很多)
  航海:有个别游轮线路路过达尔文。
  机场来回市中心:我在游记中坐的接驳巴士会等每一班到达的飞机,并把你送到你的宾馆门口,25澳币1人。不是二人同行的话不推荐出租车,比较贵也不比接驳巴士快多少,而且我到的时候还没有出租车。这个巴士公司也可以送你去机场,一样价格。一进入欢迎大堂左手边一个摊子买票,先到先得,没几个位子。
  公共交通:公交非常少,因为这个城市本来也不怎么需要。巴士总站在城市东南角Harry Chan Ave上,靠近Civic Park文化公园。单程票3澳元,一日通票7澳元,7日通票20澳元。
  城里主要是靠走,大部分东西都不远。绝大部分东西都在Mitchel和Cavenagh两条街之间,有一条短短步行街叫做The Mall上面也有很多餐厅和商店(Smith街东南部分就是步行街)。Mitchel街有很丰富的夜生活。
  景点:达尔文最有名的就是各种夜市(见游记),最有名的是Mindil Beach(周四、周日,五到十月,请带好一块野餐布,坐在沙滩上,静静的看达尔文有名的日落,注意千万别走丢,人非常多),每周六中午的Parap集市也很有特色(需要叫车)。夜市里面最有名的是各种东南亚小吃以及亚洲风味,因为达尔文距离东南亚非常近,他们的喇沙很正宗,也不要忘了各种水果果汁和冰沙,也可以买一些北澳原住民的手工艺品。
  Crocosaurus Cove鳄鱼湾是一个市中心的水族馆,票价有点贵但是可以让你喂鳄鱼、和鳄鱼游泳(见游记)。
  达尔文渔人码头(见游记):好吃的,好喝的,一个高档的公园,对着一望无际的大海。Smith街一直走直到它变成一条步道,再往前在楼里面有一个电梯可以往下乘到公园,往海走即可看到码头。
  其他的:二战地下储油地道,本地人文化区,Fannie Bay还有一个以前的监狱(免费),Crocodylus Park可以去和狐獴玩(要乘3号路巴士,请先发电邮给他们预约)。
  跟本地团:本地旅行社有很多很好玩的一日游,包括了去海边找鳄鱼,去北澳Kakadu和Litchfield国家公园旷野徒步(2-3日不等),和出海看各种海洋动物,还有私人飞机前往达尔文再往北100公里的Tiwi孤岛拜访原住民的团,市中心都可以定到。
  吃:市中心有各种好吃的亚洲餐馆,泰国越南中国印度随便挑,我游记中拜访的尼泊尔餐厅也非常正宗,中国人肯定不会觉得自己的胃被亏待了。超市有两家:Woolworths比较便宜,停车场很大。Coles离最繁华的街区最近。
  睡:达尔文有希尔顿等较为普通的酒店,单身背包客强力推荐青旅(Darwin YHA, Youth Shack等, 20澳元左右一晚),所有人都很愿意交朋友,晚上都有一起出去玩或者一起party,找个外国妹子、帅哥去看个日落什么的最好啦!
  安全:达尔文治安很好,但是澳洲所有的野生动物都已经进化到了食物链的顶端,所以一定要极度小心。千万不要在没有标识的水道和海滩游泳,这里的鳄鱼可以在海水和淡水中生存(一条6米长的鳄鱼藏在1米深的水里面一般人都还看不到),而且Mindil海滩以及其他的海滩有箱型水母出没,绝对不要下水,也不要在水边露营或者野餐。徒步时注意蛇,北澳拥有全世界前三毒的蛇。下午走路尽量走阴凉的一边,谨防中暑。报警打000。
  其它:请做好防蚊准备,这里蚊子咬人不眨眼。尽可能放慢脚步,这里的文化习惯于比中国大城市慢十几拍的速度。周日大量商店关门,因为所有人都去夜市了。

罗特内斯特岛  珀斯/Perth:
  气候:地中海气候,七八月冬天时候大概20度,晚上可以落至冰点,一二月夏天可以热到40度。
  怎么到达和离开珀斯:
  飞机:所有澳大利亚大城市都有直飞珀斯,悉尼一日10多班(4.5小时200美金),墨尔本一日10多班(3.5小时180美金),阿德莱德一日9班(3小时150美金),达尔文一日2班(维珍一班澳航一班两边都是一大早出发,3.5小时250美金),布里斯班一日十多班(4.5小时180美金),爱丽丝泉一日一班(澳航11点出发,3.5小时350美金,贵),凯恩斯一日一班(4.5小时250美金)
  国际航班以亚洲为主:巴厘岛最多,一日10班4小时150美金,也有直飞新加坡,香港,中东三大直飞各自的机场,南航从广州也有直飞。毛里求斯和约翰内斯堡也有每日的直飞航班,在未来澳航会开通直飞伦敦的航班(到时候会成为世界上最长的航线)。目前没有直飞北美的航班。
  所有四个航站楼有免费24小时穿梭巴士,20分一班
  公路:作为世界上最孤立的城市,开车到珀斯是要胆大心细的人才可能办到的。前往阿德莱德的2700公里自驾几乎是一辈子一次的冒险,而乘一日一班的灰狗通过Broome前往达尔文的巴士只需要60多小时。。。
  火车:悉尼来回珀斯的印第安太平号(Indian Pacific)也是世界上有名的火车线路之一。四天三夜,需要提前预定,非常贵。这条线路路过了阿德莱德之后会经过世界上最长的一段直线火车轨道:478公里不打一个弯!!!
  船:大部分小船停在Fremantle,也有很多环游世界的游轮在珀斯停靠。
  共享公路旅行:大部分前往Broome和阿德莱德(请搜Nullabor Traveller),请见达尔文的这一部分。
  机场来回市中心:第一第二航站楼有380路直达市中心伊丽莎白枢纽(凌晨4点到凌晨1点,半小时一班,周末时间不一样,4.5澳元一人)第三第四航站楼37和40路都到伊丽莎白枢纽(白天,从机场出发两条线一样的,从市中心出发去机场请看清楚,很多37路不到机场的)
  公共交通:珀斯的公共交通准时,快,也不贵,强力推荐。交通卡叫做SmartRider,大部分大站和报亭都有卖,使用它所有票85折。免费CAT巴士有4条,可以去查询一下,总有一条适合你。市中心也有一个免费巴士区,在这个区里面使用SmartRider乘坐任何公交不需要一分钱。巴士司机可以卖你单程票。火车也非常快,可以直接带你去Fremantle,高峰十五分钟一班,其他时间半小时一班,6点到半夜。15分钟一班有来回天鹅河南北岸的船。珀斯的公交是分区的,绝大部分地方都在2区以内,所以不会特别贵。一日通票12澳元,单程票1区3澳元,2区4.2澳元,3区5澳元。
  珀斯市内开车也不是很困难,上下班时候会堵车。城中心靠走也是非常容易的。
  景点:洛特涅斯岛!!!!来珀斯我强烈建议花一天去,原因详情见我的游记。可爱的短尾矮袋鼠全世界只有这个小岛上有,去Rottnest Express渡船公司网上提早定好洛特涅斯岛的来回船票会比较便宜,每天有几班船还有免费巴士接送,每个礼拜二它们会有打折,那时候买半价(我买的来回40多澳币)而且一定要加上预定自行车!带好大量的水和午餐,这个岛走路是不可能走完的,骑车也会很累。出发是在Barrack Street Jetty,蓝色CAT直达,Fremantle渡口也会停一下,在开出天鹅河的时候会有讲解,在岛上请不要喂食小动物,因为短尾矮袋鼠是受一级保护的,当心不要被它们抓伤。
  Fremantle一日游,强力推荐,详情见游记,去看看著名的Fremantle市场(五六日9点到17点),以及Fremantle监狱,这个世界遗产需要在门口买票跟团才可以进去,每半小时有一个团(22澳元),不可以自己在里面走的。每周三周五晚上有非常好玩的地下烛火团(要网上预定,60澳元),胆子大的话可以去看看,还有一些要提前预定的赏画团等等。这个小城也非常适合骑车看海。火车每半个小时从珀斯中心站出发,25分钟到Fremantle中心站,沿途景色美爆了。
  珀斯还可以去品酒,澳洲最好的酒都出产于西澳(特别是珀斯附近的Margaret River河谷),可以提前预定品酒一日游。
  珀斯往东340公里Hyden镇离世界闻名的波浪石很近,需要2日往返,一日游也是不可以,但是一定要很早起床自驾。
  吃:注意珀斯的餐馆一般很早就都打烊了,在周末晚上十点你也会发现几乎没什么开门的酒家了。。。本地特产是小龙虾。这里中国人还不少,Northbridge豪大大鲜芋仙什么都有了所以也不用担心不合胃口啦。
  睡:珀斯的宾馆奇贵无比,所以建议没钱的单身汪还是乖乖住青旅吧,不过澳洲的青旅和其他地方都很不一样,非常的有活力,所以我也很推荐大家找一家在Northbridge附近的一家住下来,又便宜又方便。
  安全:最重要的就是要注意防暑,防晒霜涂好,带足水。珀斯治安很好,周末晚上Northbridge可能会有一点点乱,但是没有什么大碍,报警000。本地警察据说特别喜欢抓超速的,所以开车一定要慢。
本篇游记共含43020个文字,40张图片。帮助了名游客。举报     相关目的地:澳大利亚        澳大利亚旅游攻略 / 追寻萌物·环游世界200天:北澳西澳游记...去看看>不再显示蚂蜂窝账号登录注册账号登录方式QQ微博微信
来源:蚂蜂窝 http://www.mafengwo.cn/i/7279190.html
回复

使用道具 举报

您需要登录后才可以回帖 登录 | 立即注册长征网

本版积分规则

返回顶部